History of Ikat

Ikat is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employ resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. In Ikat, the resist is formed by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern (Ikat means "to bind" in the Indonesian language).

Ikat was once prominent in Tamil Nadu but, today, it is prevalent in the states of Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Odisha (previously known as Orissa) and Gujarat, where it is known locally by different names. Owing to the lack of written historical documentation it is difficult for historians to pinpoint Ikat's exact country of origin. However, cave frescoes in Ajanta, Maharashtra, that date back to the 7th century CE indicate that Ikat has a long history in India.

Ikat is similar to tie and dye in regards to the use of resist dyeing to produce elaborate patterns. There are many patterns in Ikat, ranging from simple symmetrical motifs to geometric shapes to abstract zoomorphic. Ikat can be categorized into three sub-techniques, they are:

Warp Ikat

Ikat created by dyeing the warp is simpler to make than either Weft Ikat or Double Ikat. First the yarns--cotton, silk, wool or other fibers—are wound onto a frame. Then they are tied into bundles.

The bundles may be covered with wax, as in batik. The warp yarns are then wrapped tightly with thread or some other dye-resistant material to prevent unwanted dye permeation. The procedure is repeated, depending on the number of colors required to complete the design. Multiple colorations are common, requiring multiple rounds of tying and dyeing.

The newly dyed and thoroughly washed bundles are wound onto the loom to produce the warp (longitudinal yarns). Warp threads are adjusted for the desired alignment for precise motifs.

Weft Ikat

Weft Ikat uses resist-dyeing for the weft yarns. The movement of the weft yarns in the weaving process patterns is more difficult to weave. The weft yarn must be adjusted after each passing of the shuttle to preserve the pattern.

The process of Weft Ikat is more time consuming compared to Warp Ikat. This is due to the artisans' intricate attention to detail in the adjustment of the weft, necessary throughout the weaving process in order to maintain the consistency and clarity of patterns.

Nevertheless, highly skilled artisans can produce precise weft ikat. In some precise Weft Ikat traditions (Gujarat, India), two artisans weave the cloth: one passes the shuttle and the other adjusts the way the yarn lies in the shed.

As the weft is commonly a continuous strand, aberrations or variation in coloration are cumulative. Some Weft Ikat traditions incorporate this effect into their aesthetic. Patterns become transformed by the weaving process into irregular and erratic designs.

Double Ikat

Double Ikat is created by resist-dyeing both the warp and weft prior to weaving. Some sources use the term Double Ikat only when the warp and weft patterning overlap to form common, identical motifs. If they do not, the result is referred to as compound ikat.

This form of weaving requires the most skill for precise patterns to be woven and is considered the premier form of ikat. The amount of labor and skill required also makes it the most expensive, and many poor-quality clothes flood the tourist markets.

Indian and Indonesian examples typify highly precise double ikat. Especially prized are the double ikats woven in silk known in India as patola (singular: patolu). These are from Gujarat (Cambay). During the colonial era, Dutch merchants used patola as prestigious trade cloths during the peak of the spice trade.

Weaving in double ikat is so intricate that it can take from seven to nine months to weave the length of a single saree. Within India, the double ikat technique is most renowned in the Nalgonda district of the state of Andhra Pradesh and Patan, Gujarat where it is known as Patan Patola.

So, these were the three categories and techniques of Ikat printing. You can check out variants of Ikat prints & apparels at https://www.qyaari.com